Traveling To France

---

I love flying Air France.  I feel like my French vacation has begun as soon as I get on the plane.  The food is wonderful, everyone is speaking French and it feels like I’m already in France. They also have a cabin of “Premier Voyage” which is between coach and business class that is not very much more expensive than coach but gives you extra leg room and a larger seat. The problem with Air France is that from the East Coast they only fly out of New York and Washington DC, Dullas.  

Most of the time I fly on points.  American Express points can be moved to Air France.  Become obsessive about collecting points and use them for your flight.

Getting from Charles de Gaulle to Paris:

From Charles de Gaulle there are three ways to get into the city of Paris.  You can take a cab (about 60 Euros), take the train (RER - about 15 Euros) or take the bus (about 10 euros).  I usually take the train.  You get on at the airport and you get off at several stops in Paris.  From the station where you get off in Paris you can get a cab or take the Metro to your hotel.

From Charles de Gaulle to Bordeaux:

If you fly Air France and are going directly to Bordeaux then it makes the most sense to simply change planes in Paris.  The cost to fly all the way to Bordeaux from the US is almost the same as flying to Paris.  

You can also take a TGV train directly from Charles De Gaulle airport to Bordeaux.  This makes sense if you are not flying Air France to Paris.

If you are stopping in Paris before going to Bordeaux, then the train is the best way to get to Bordeaux.  You get the train from Gare Montparnasse.  Make sure you are looking for your train number as the destination can be a stop past Bordeaux (ie Toulouse).

Check Your Airport!

Most flights from the US fly into Charles de Gaulle Airport, but some airlines are now flying into Paris’ other airport – Orly. Make sure you know which airport you are flying into especially if you are having to change planes to go to another city.  You may be flying into Orly an out of Charles de Gaulle – or the other way around – and have to change airports.  It’s not impossible to do, but it is a little bit of a hassle and takes about an hour. 

Travel light.  I just went for eight weeks and took only one carry-on and a backpack.  I hate standing around waiting for my luggage, or taking the chance that the airlines will lose my luggage.  I want to go right from the plane to my hotel in the shortest amount of time.  So how do I pack in carry-on?  It is impossible to pack for eight weeks so I pack for ten days and plan on doing wash. Here are my other tips.

1. Shoes are the enemy of travel.  I take two pair – a pair I can do a lot of walking in and a pair of sandals to wear with shorts – that can also be worn to the pool or beach.  The walking shoes are the most important and I start shopping for them months before I leave for my trip.  I want a pair that is great to walk in (and you will do a lot of walking) and also can be worn out to dinner.  I have a pair of Clarks that does the trick and I love them.  I wear them on the plane and pack the sandals.

2. Travel underwear is key.  ExOfficio (www.exofficio.com) is a company that sells all kinds of travel goods. They sell underwear that can be washed at night and is dry in the morning.  I take two pair.  I wash one pair at night in my hotel, and it's ready to wear the next day.  This saves a lot of space in my luggage.

3. I take two pair of long kakis – one I wear on the plane and the other in my suitcase.  The weather could be cool, and I also want a pair to wear to nice restaurants.

4. I take two pair of quick dry socks.  They are the same as the underwear – they dry overnight.

5. I take one cotton sweater.  I usually don’t need it, but for the one or two nights it could be cool, I’ll have it.

6. I take one dress shirt (also from Exofficio) that I wear on the plane.  It also dries quickly.

7. I take ten golf shirts.  I take the kind that dry quickly and can be washed at night and dry in the morning.

8.  I take 3 pair of shorts.  Two khaki and 1 blue.  Dark colors are best for wine tastingJ

9. I take only the minimum of toiletries with me – and buy the rest when I arrive – so that I don’t have to worry about the liquid allowance in carry-on.

10. I take a small nylon rope strapped backpack for my daily excursions.  It takes up almost zero space in my bag and it is great for walking around. 

11.  My briefcase/backpack is a soft side from Eagle Creek that also has backpack straps, so I usually carry it on my back.  In it I have:

a. laptop

b. ipad

c. journal

d. camera

e. usb cables and plugs - make sure you have plugs that adapt to Europe.

f. folder with tickets and itinerary

12. I found a large nylon bag that folds up and can be stuffed in the outer pocket of my suitcase.  I take that so I have room for the things we’ll buy while we’re there.  We check that bag on the return trip home.

1. A money belt is an absolute necessity; no question, not an option, it just is!  You should have one or not carry anything at all.  Violent crime is not bad in Europe but petty theft is a problem.  Carry your passport and air tickets in your secure money belt at all times – unless you can lock them in a safe.  Our friends lost their passports and air tickets in the London airport and it was a nightmare replacing them.  Another friend had his laptop stolen when he put down his briefcase next to him for just a second to pay for something at a counter. His passport was also in that bag and it was an unbelievable hassle just to get back to Canada.  He is also now on the “suspect” list every time he goes through security.  It will ruin your trip if you loose your passport or credit card.

2. Look for hotels with safes and use them.

3. Make a color photo copy of all your important documents (passport, credit card, atm card, plane ticket etc.) and place it in a safe place. Take a picture of it an have it on your locked phone.

The French appreciate it when you try to speak their language.  Even if you’re butchering it they will treat you better if you try. One thing I do is ask them how to say things.  They see that I am interested and it really helps.  Almost everyone is friendly and helpful.  I think a lot of the bad reputation the French get is because Americans can be  obnoxious and we get the response we deserve.  Everyone will treat you better with a few simple French words.  This is particularly true with waiters, hotel staff and others in the service profession.

Here are my top eleven words/phrases you should know and use.

1. bon jour (good morning)

2. merci (thank you)

3. si vous plait (please)

4. au revoir (good bye)

5. bonne (great)

6. tres  (very)

7. avez vous? (have you?)

8. ou est (where is..) pronounced oo ay

9. comment (how) pronounced  coe mont

10. quell? (what) i.e.: quell heurre  = what time

11. combienne? (how much)  (comb ee n)

Paris is the most beautiful city in the world.  It is busy and alive like any large city, but it has the added dimension of being architecturally beautiful and filled with art.  

With kids:  When we were there in ‘99 we took the boys in for a day - and a full day was plenty for them. You'll want to make sure to hit the high spots and have a good meal, but after that it will depend on what your kids enjoy as to how much time is right for your family. We went to the Eiffel tower first and it took us three hours to get up and down.  Be prepared for long lines and lots of crowds in July and August (we were there in August).  It was also very hot in August so standing in line was not fun - but hey, you’re in Paris and you just have to go up the Tour Eiffel.  

From the Eiffel Tower we got on the open air double-decker bus tour of the city.  This worked out well because the boys got a good overview and saw all the sights but we didn't have to walk all over to do it. We did the “drive by” of Notre Dame and got off the bus at Luxembourg Gardens.  The “Jardins du Luxembourg” is one of my favorite spots in Paris.  It is similar to a small version of Central Park in New York and gives you the sense of being with real Parisians.  There are all kinds of people hanging out there, and perhaps there will be entertainment in the park like there was the day Deb and I were there.  On that day there was a concert, a tennis tournament, and a basketball tournament going on.  When I took the family, we laid on the grass and took naps!

Back on the double-decker bus (it's a "hop on, hop off type") we rode along to the Arc de Triomphe where we again disembarked.  I had been up the Arc with Mike so because the boys were already tired, we passed on this. But the sight from the top is worth it and I recommend it if you are up to the climb.  After the Arc we walked down the Champs Elysees and poked in the various overpriced shops looking for the perfect Paris souvenir - which we never found. It seems to me that the best souvenir shops are around Notre Dame (a stop on the tour bus) but beware of the tee shirts - the cheap ones will shrink badly - a lesson learned from experience.

In many French restaurants you'll find "menu prix fix" or the fixed price menu.  This is what I always look for.  There are lots of guidebooks recommending restaurants and we’ve used Rick Steves and Let’s Go.  Rick Steves writes travel books about Europe (Europe through the back door) and has a PBS show called “Travels in Europe.”  His web sight is also good and there is a “graffiti wall” where other travelers write suggestions of restaurants etc.  It might be worth looking at.  He is great for inexpensive hotels that are real values, but his restaurant picks can be a little expensive.  “Let’s Go” on the other hand is written by Harvard University kids bumming around Europe and has hotels that are so cheap you wouldn’t want to stay there (this also learned from experience) but it’s restaurant recommendations are pretty good. They generally list places that serve lot’s of food at reasonable prices.

Rick Steves highly recommends staying in the 7thArrondisement and in the Rue Cler neighborhood. Deb and I have stayed there a lot and I think he is right.  The Rue Cler is within walking distance of the Tour Eiffel, Napoleons tomb, and the Rodin museum.  The real unique thing about the Rue Cler neighborhood is that it is still a very local place even with lots of tourist.  You feel like you’re experiencing real Paris life, not the tourist side of things.

We stayed at the Hotel d’Alma and it is a good hotel at a reasonable price with clean rooms and breakfast included. There is one major drawback to the hotel d’Alma; it doesn’t have air conditioning.  I didn’t think this would be important because Paris is usually not that hot, even in the summer.  The problem is that the city is noisy and I didn’t sleep very well because I had to keep my window open and the noise kept me awake.  

We’ve also stayed at the Hotel Park Eiffel  which is also near the Rue Cler and it is a fine hotel (with air conditioning) but a little more expensive.  One of my favorite things about this place is it’s rooftop patio.

These days we love staying close to Luxembourg Gardens and now stay between there and Gare Montparnesse.  We love the Hotel Aiglon which is on Boulevard Raspail because it is close to great restaurants, the Metro and Luxembourg Gardens.

After you've been up the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triumphe and relaxed in Luxembourg Gardens, the other must see sights are

 1) Notre Dame, 

2) the Louvre, 

3) the Musee d’Arsay, 

4) the Rodin museum (good for kids) and  

5) Sacre Coeur.  These are all stops on the bus tour, but you can also easily see them using the metro or buses.

Again, I would warn you that the lines for these will all be awful during the summer.  If you plan to visit the museums then I would strongly suggest a Museum Pass (which you can purchase at any museum or train station) because it generally lets you in a side door and you can skip the long lines.  Believe me it's worth it.  We skipped an hour wait in line at the Musee d’Orsay because we had the pass and were able to enter through a side door.  And if you visit two or three different museums then it pays off financially also.

I would suggest a day of general touring and a day of museums.  Generally we had breakfast at the hotel, then ate a light lunch and a good, long dinner. Two or three days of great food and museums is probably enough for the first time in Paris.

Versailles is an hour from Paris by train (take the metro – ask at your hotel).  Again, the lines will be long and you will exhaust yourself walking around the property but it is worth it.  I believe they run the fountains – accompanied by classical music - on Sunday afternoons in the summer and this is fantastic! 

The four other places in France I would strongly recommend are 1) the Normandy Beaches, 2) Mount St. Michelle, 3) a few chateau of the Loire Valley and 4) Bordeaux/Dordogne.

Eating in Paris:

Bertillion - the best ice cream in the world.  Just east of Notre Dame

Angelina's - awesome breakfast and the must have Chocolate Afrikan.  No really, you must!

Fontaine du Mars - a little touristy but wonderful.  Ask to sit outside, or if you have to sit inside ask to sit with the French people.

Le Moulin Vert - on the outskirts, great value, excellent food, wonderful service.

Bistro de Breteuil - is a great prix fix that is hard to beat.  The service was excellent and the price included Kir and wine!

La Closerie des Lilas - Where Hemmingway wrote "A Movable Feast" - will break the bank, but worth every dime.

Bistrot du Septième - Classic prix fix menu; great service and a true taste of Paris.

Near Paris

About forty minutes – and a quick train ride – from Paris is the chateau of Fontainbleu (near where I was born). It is where Napoleon abdicated and it is a beautiful chateau with wonderful gardens in a lovely small town.

About an hour from Paris is the cathedral at Chartres, which is well worth the trip.

Versailles is about thirty minutes from Paris and you should make sure you go when they run the fountains.

To me, the D-day beaches are a must see.  When you stand on the beaches and realize what occurred there you gain a whole new perspective of the war and the price that was paid for freedom.  The only challenge with the Normandy beaches is a logistical one because they’re not easy to get to.  You can take a bus tour that leaves Paris very early in the morning and does the whole tour.  This is the simple way and can be booked at your hotel.  

Another way is to rent a car and drive up to the beaches - about a ninety minute to two hour drive. A third option is to take the train to Caen and pick up a rental car there.  This avoids having to  driving in Paris but takes longer because the train is not a high speed one from Paris to Caen.  I typically take the train and rent a car in Caen.

If you go you’ll want to begin in Caen at the "Memorial".  Although it's called the memorial it's really a museum that takes you through the history leading up to the war and then also documents the war itself.  This is a great starting point for understanding the whole war. 

From Caen you drive about a half an hour to the beaches beginning in Arromanches - the sight of the false harbor and the worst casualties in the landing.  There is a museum here also which shows how the false harbor worked and tells more about the war.  Your ticket to the Memorial in Caen also gets you a discount to the museum in Arromanches.

From Arromanches it is only a short drive to the American cemetery and from the American Cemetery to the German cemetery is only about ten minutes.  Both are sobering and give you a better understanding of the battle.  I don’t know how you’ll react to the American Cemetery but for me it was incredible.  From the American Cemetery you continue on to Point du Hoc and the other significant places from the war.

Near the D-day beaches is the town of Bayeaux where there is a famous tapestry and a wonderful bed and breakfast - Hotel d'Argouges.  This is the best place to stay when visiting the beaches. 

Near Bayeaux is Le Mount St. Michelle the fabulous island church and monastery. The Mount is spectacular.  The story is that the angel Michael told one of the kings to build it and after ignoring the angel two times he finally did build it.  It is a truly marvelous creation.  It is built on a chunk of rock off the Normandy coast and when the tide is in it becomes an island.  You can only park and enter the little town at the bottom of the Mount and walk the foot bridge to the town.  My advice is to drive to the Mount in the evening staying just outside the Mount in an inexpensive hotel, or perhaps even stay in Pontorson.  Get up early and visit the Mount itself the next day and then drive from there to the Loire Valley (about a three hour drive).

Near the Mount is the town of St. Malo with a walled old city that is also incredible.